Application of DURA SEAL or SR PRO 7 on Previously Coated Pools
By following the recommendations listed in this bulletin, recoating your pool should produce excellent results. However, when these
recommendations are not followed, future problems are being invited.
Existing surfaces with a rubber based coating should be recoated only with a rubber base coating. Likewise, epoxy coated
surfaces should be recoated only with epoxy.
RECOATING RUBBER BASED POOL SURFACES
First, test the existing finish for adhesion. If it does not come off with pressure from a putty knife or wire brush, then it should remain.
If there is any loose coating, it should be removed and then those spots should be sanded with coarse sandpaper. If old rubber based
coating has a build-up of 6 to 8 coats, then we recommend removal of all coating by water blasting or scraping if possible.
Secondly, the surface must be perfectly clean of oils and other contaminants. Wash thoroughly with a tri-sodium phosphate (TSP)
solution, particularly around the water line where these substances concentrate. Rinse with pressurized water.
If there are any bare concrete spots, they should be acid etched and neutralized and primed prior to coating. The pool should be
allowed to dry completely before coating.
After 4 or 5 days of continuous rain, concrete and the adjacent soil become saturated. To allow the water to evaporate, the
pool must dry for 3 or 4 days. If not, blistering is likely. Laying plastic on the surface will trap moisture and form condensation showing if
surface is still damp.
RECOATING EPOXY COATED POOL SURFACES
Unlike rubber based coatings, epoxy coatings do not build up. As a reaction to ultraviolet rays, epoxies erode and chalk slightly and
eventually disappear. They should not be recoated until all gloss is gone and the finish is nearly transparent.
Before recoating, remove all residues such as suntan oil from the surface by washing with tri-sodium phosphates (TSP) solution. Then
hose off. To remove stains and other contaminants, wash the pool again with a 10% solution of muriatic acid. Also, you may uses 2lbs
of sufmaic acid crystals per gallon of water. A gallon of either acid solution will etch approximately 100 sq. ft. After this, rewash the pool
with tri-sodium phosphate (TSP). This is necessary to neutralize the acid. Both solutions are used because some contaminants can be
removed only with acid while oil can only be removed with tri-sodium phosphate (TSP). Now hose off with clean water.
After this procedure is complete and the pool is dry, the pool may be recoated.
If, for some reason, a pool with an epoxy finish is to be recoated before all gloss has disappeared, the surface should be scored using
coarse sandpaper. It should be scored in one direction. This gives the new coat a surface with which to achieve a satisfactory bond.
Otherwise, the new epoxy coat does not have an adequate surface to adhere.
TIPS FOR RECOATING WITH EPOXY
- When there are bare spots, spot prime with ROUGH PRIME primer before coating.
- THOROUGHLY STIR IN THE CATALYST. We strongly recommend the use of an electric mixer to achieve proper mixing of any
two-component material. All DURA SEAL containers are only 3/4 full to leave room for the catalyst which is added at the ratio of
one quart to each gallon and one gallon and one quart to each 5 gallon can. Catalyst for the 5 gallon can is under the lid. Catalyst
for the gallon is in a separate container. CAUTION! All catalyst MUST be removed from the can containing the catalyst. It MUST
BE THOROUGHLY mixed with the base. The induction period MUST be observed before application begins. If these important
instructions are not observed, the DURA SEAL will remain soft and tacky.
- When mixing the base with the catalyst on residential and smaller pools, do not mix more than 2 one-gallon containers at a time.
This will prevent mixture from setting up before it is used. Five-gallon containers set up faster and should only be used on larger
pools where the materials are sprayed or being applied with larger paint rollers.
- When rolling, do not use a longer nap cover than 7/16”. Airless spraying provides the best job but requires an experienced
spray operator. When using DURA SEAL pool coatings, the application equipment should be cleaned with #1109 Epoxy Solvent
immediately after using. Once it “cures” it is almost impossible to remove the coating.
- Never apply DURA SEAL when the temperature is below 50°F. Below 50°F, they will not cure or harden. When there is a considerable
drop in temperature at night, the following day the pool walls remain much colder than air temperature. The surface should be 50°F
or above to achieve optimum results.
- Avoid coating in the direct rays of the sun on real hot days. Coat on the shady side when the day is hot. Do not coat in the morning
before the dew and condensation has had ample time to evaporate. Dry off the surface with rags or towels if dew or moisture is
- DURA SEAL will cover 125 to 175 square feet per gallon. 12 mils of DURA SEAL should be applied.
- Always mix the coat in the center of the floor of the pool. Coat the pool walls first and the floor last. Never wear hard-soled shoes
when coating. Wear “sneakers” or soft-soled shoes.
- DURA SEAL will produce a smooth, slick, non-porous finish which is easy to clean and keep clean. While the coating is still tacky, white
silica sand should be lightly sifted on the bottom of wading pools, steps, and shallow areas. After the coating sets up, the excess sand
should be brushed or vacuumed from the surface. Avoid using too much sand. A very lightly concentration will make the surface slip-proof.
#1108 Rubber Base Solvent for SR PRO 7
#1109 Epoxy Solvent for ROUGH PRIME and DURA SEAL
For all of the above coatings and solvents exceed 105°F
Minimum Recoating Time for ROUGH PRIME, PRIME IT! and DURA SEAL:
4 hours @ 90°F to 95°F
5 hours @ 85°F to 90°F
6 hours @ 80°F to 85°F
8 hours @ 75°F to 80°F
Overnight below 75°F
Minimum Recoating Time for SR PRO 7:
4 hours except in cool or damp weather; then allow overnight drying time
Maximum Recoating Time for ROUGH PRIME, PRIME IT! and DURA SEAL:
2 hours @ 90°F to 95°F
3 hours @ 85°F to 90°F
4 hours @ 75°F to 85°F
6 hours @ 68°F to 75°F
8 hours @ 60°F to 68°F
Approx. 2 hours @ 90°F
Approx. 4 hours @ 70°F
1/2 hour @ 85°F or above
1 hour @ 65°F to 85°F
Above 85°F, use immediately after mixing thoroughly with catalyst. Do not mix 5-gallon containers unless you can usewithin 30
to 40 minutes. The smaller the quantity mixed at one time, the longer the pot life. Always mix and store in a cool place.
Pot life and working time can be increased by thinning 5% to 10% with #1109 Epoxy Solvent. Highly recommended
when surface temperature exceed 90°F. Add water with PRIME IT!.
To not mix more of the 2 component epoxies than can be used during the pot life of the material.
Curing Schedule - Before Filling Pool:
3 days @ 75°F and up
4 days @ 70°F to 75°F
5 days @ 65°F to 70°F
6 days @ 60°F to 65°F
SR PRO 7: 5 days minimum
Waiting Time for New Concrete to Cure Before Applying SR PRO 7:
30 days - Minimum
Dust Free Drying Time: All Epoxy Products:
1 hour @ 95°F
1 1/2 hours @ 85°F
2 hours @ 80°F
3 hours - below 70°F
Square Feet per Gallon:
Smooth Surface: 200 to 250 sq. ft. per gallon
100 to 150 sq. ft. per gallon
125 to 150 sq. ft. per gallon
SR PRO 7:
250 to 300 sq. ft. per gallon
All products: 2 years or over
Ageing Period - After Mixing and Before Application for:
PRIME IT!, ROUGH PRIME and DURA SEAL: See induction schedule on label
Applied Film Thickness:
ROUGH PRIME: 8 to 10 mils
DURA SEAL: 2 to 14 mils
SR PRO 7: 2 to 4 mils
PRIME IT!: 2 1/2 to 4 mils
CAUTION! - COMBUSTIBLE!
Keep away from heat and open flame. Avoid prolonged contact with skin and breathing of vapor. Close container after each use. Areas
of body or clothing on contact with uncured resin and/or catalyst should be thoroughly cleaned with solvent and washed with soap and
water immediately. Use only where there is adequate ventilation.
KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN
Information herein given has been accumulated through many years of experience and verified by our technical personnel and is based
upon tests believed to be reliable, but RESULTS ARE NOT GUARANTEED.